By Dave Shroeder
Special to NKyTribune
Recently I was asked to give a tour of Covington to a friend from outside the region. We met at Otto’s on Main Street – always a good place to start a Covington excursion, and then I asked him what he wanted to see. His response was “churches.”
I have given my fair share of church tours so I was ready for the challenge. Everything I showed him I had seen many times before. But this tour was different; I was seeing Covington through the eyes of a newcomer. His insight made me appreciate our built environment all the more.
Our first stop was Mother of God on Sixth Street. I must admit, this church holds a lot of meaning to me. My mother, grandmother and great-grandmother were all members of the parish from birth. My great-great-grandparents, immigrants from Germany, were also members in the 19th century.
I pointed out the stained glass from Munich, the five large Johann Schmitt murals, the beautiful woodcarvings, the wonderfully frescoed ceilings and the community’s strong German character. I have given this tour many times before, but this time was different. My friend was really soaking in the experience.
He was fascinated that this beautiful church stood in Covington – a relatively small Midwestern town. He was amazed that a group of immigrants could have raised the funds needed to build such a magnificent building and made the comment that the building “certainly expressed the faith the parishioners had in their church and in the community.” He rightly pointed out that this was a time in our history when we built great buildings that expressed the importance of what was going on inside to the community.
Our next stop was the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption. I explained the Irish heritage of the parish (my friend has Irish ancestry), pointed out the beautiful German-made stained glass, the marble shrines and the Appalachian carved oak in the sanctuary. I spent considerable time on the rose windows and the large north transept window depicting the Council of Ephesus in the 5th Century.
When I give a tour of the cathedral, I always point out the Stations of the Cross from a distance and then ask the people to move closer to them – it is only then that they see that the stations are not paintings, but mosaics – some containing as many as 60,000 tiles.
We ended that time with a look at the Frank Duveneck murals in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel. My friend’s response, “We have some nice churches where I live, but not as significant as this – it’s like being in Europe!”
After leaving the cathedral, I made a point of passing the Carnegie (the old Covington Library), and Trinity Episcopal Church – two of my other favorite Covington buildings. Finally, I took him through the Licking-Riverside area. Here I explained “The Point,” showed him the beautiful antebellum homes and carriage houses, George Rogers Clark Park, and of course the spectacular views of Cincinnati.
Along the way my friend and I each learned a few things. My friend was amazed that these wonderful historic treasures had stood the test of time and that the people of the region made significant efforts to build them and protect them over the years.
As someone who appreciates history, he found a city that lays it all out – areas with rich architectural significance like Licking-Riverside and some areas that need a little TLC. We discussed the history of the city, its rise and influence, its hard times following the suburbanization of the region following World War II and its new exciting developments.
What did I learn? I have lived in Northern Kentucky my entire life and have studied the region’s history for nearly three decades. I have given group tours on many occasions and have visited these sites many times. Despite all of this, I walked away with a new appreciation of our built environment. Covington has done a good job of maintaining and restoring many of its historic treasures. We have lost some historic buildings, but by and large, the city remains remarkably intact.
I also, on that day, fully understood why historic preservation coupled with new sensitive development will ultimately lead to the rebirth of this wonderful city. Covington is truly blessed with a fabulous built environment. These buildings are alive and well and still contribute to the community in significant ways.
I learned that focusing on the positives in a community is a great starting point toward revitalization and rejuvenation. I also learned to look up, look out and look down – you will be surprised by all the treasures that surround you in Covington and in all our river cities.
Dave Schroeder is executive director of the Kenton County Public Library. With other well-known regional historians, James C. Claypool and Paul Tencotte, he is a co-editor of the new 450-page Gateway City: Covington, Kentucky, 1815-2015, now available at your local booksellers, the Center for Great Neighborhoods in Covington and online sellers.