Part 16 of an occasional series about Casual & Fine Dining
By Raymond G. Hebert, PhD
Special to NKyTribune
It is believed that the first revolving restaurant was built by the Roman Emperor Nero (ruled 54–68 AD) in his Golden Palace, “of 300 rooms, all built for entertainment” (McKenzie Graham, “Steakhouse in the Sky: Covington’s Revolving Rooftop Restaurant,” City Beat, February 13, 2018). In the United States, the first revolving restaurant was designed by architect John “Jack” Graham, Jr., for the Ala Moana Center in Honolulu. He was the same architect who designed the revolving restaurant for Seattle’s Space Needle (completed in 1961) (“Space Needle History”).
The Seattle Space Needle Restaurant was the inspiration for Covington’s revolving restaurant in 1972, atop the iconic Quality Inn, with executive chefs Richard Zumwalde and Luigi LaValle in the early years. Later, after pointing out sarcastically that “the kitsch has worn off the concept over the years,” author Ronny Salerno of Queen City Discovery quoted Mitch Moxley who, in a New York Times article about this type of architecture, said: “These restaurants have always evoked the spirit of ridiculous audacity that many of our cities lack today. They’re civic boosterism in physical form: we built a tower so you can properly enjoy the other towers we’re so proud of having built” (Mitch Moxley, “Letter of Recommendation: Revolving Restaurants,” New York Times Magazine, March 19, 2019).
The location and signature appearance of Covington’s revolving restaurant have made it an icon of the Northern Kentucky skyline for many years. Salerno conveys that at one time, there were two revolving restaurants locally but “the one on the Ohio side (Millenium Hotel) has been gone for years while the Northern Kentucky one still exists and spins” (Ronny Salerno, “The Revolving Restaurant of Covington,” Queen City Discovery, June 30, 2019)
While most of the restaurant’s noteworthy renovations took place in 2016, when the hotel was purchased by the Radisson, Donna Covrett, for Cincinnati Magazine, asked “Can a staid restaurant reinvent itself?”
Despite its new name, “The 360,” the restaurant had become dated. She reminded her readers, that the “view still swept over the Northern Kentucky hills. The river and the downtown skyline . . . it was always impressive in the daytime and spectacular at night” for 40 years, first as a Quality Inn, then as the Clarion, and most recently the Raddison (Donna Covrett, “Round and Round,” Cincinnati Magazine, November 1, 2012). She also mentioned a brief revival under well-known chef Josh Munchel, who for a transition period, served both as “executive chef and general manager,” often judged in the business as difficult at best. Not surprisingly, at the time of her review, she announced his impending departure and added: “(in the end) updated textiles and light fixtures aren’t enough. Whoever replaces Munchel in the kitchen here, I hope the management allows him or her to don a chef coat full time and take complete creative control of the kitchen . . . and lets the chef have a kitchen staff that works as a team to executive a unified vision.”
Significantly, not long afterward in 2014, a Canadian hotel company purchased this iconic Covington landmark with the promise of major renovations to the 220 rooms and the restaurant. The company strategically decided “not to rename or rebrand the hotel (and to) keep the existing management and staff” (“Covington Radisson Sold to Canadian Firm,” Cincinnati Enquirer, June 26, 2014).
The renovations were complete in 2016, and restaurant reviewer Polly Campbell of the Cincinnati Enquirer visited the restaurant whose name had changed from “The 360” to “The 18 Steakhouse.” In her inimitable style, she began her review by examining the concept of the revolving restaurant itself, noting that, “They built a bunch of these in the 60s and 70s because they could. And because they’re kind of cool. Not as thrilling now, in the age of virtual reality and stunningly scary roller coasters, though. But there is still a novelty to an expansive view that changes from appetizer to dessert.”
Campbell noted that, after different menu concepts over the years, the latest would be a “steakhouse with a new look and new menu” (Polly Campbell, “How’s the Food at Covington’s Revolving Restaurant,” Cincinnati Enquirer, August 18, 2016). Campbell’s review complimented the menu that “covered some ground” while pointing out that, in these early stages, to be a competitive steakhouse, “it would not do to cut corners that would make the food secondary to the view.”
With that incentive, the Radisson upped its game and, in June 2017 “unveiled its $5 million facelift, showing off the new lobby, redone guest rooms, ballroom, and the revolving restaurant on the top floor (18th).” One noticeable change in the latter was that “the large booths had been taken out, making more space for the view and giving it a brighter feel” (Sarah Brookbank, “Take a Look Inside the Radisson Hotel, ‘An Icon Renewed,’” Cincinnati Enquirer, June 1, 2017). With great pride, Radisson’s director of sales and marketing Lamont Ford said “the group set out with one idea in mind, ‘an icon renewed’ . . . We made some things more appealing, but we kept that tradition. We just took that view and expanded it . . . the sky is the limit for us.”
While improvements have continued to increase the attractiveness of the Radisson, it is reflective of the community that the revolving aspect of the restaurant and its uniqueness is still a salient feature. McKenzie Graham concluded his article by saying: “The nighttime lights (including the iconic changing weather prediction beacons on the outside of the building), the interesting variance between each side of the river, the juxtaposition between old and new among the buildings, the huge windows, and the glittering water are the real MVPs of Eighteen at the Radisson” (Graham, City Beat).
The experience, after all, is a one-of-a-kind restaurant in Greater Cincinnati, which is worth celebrating.
Dr. Raymond G. Hebert is Professor of History and Executive Director of the William T. Robinson III Institute for Religious Liberty at Thomas More University. He is the leading author of Thomas More University at 100: Purpose, People, and Pathways to Student Success (2023). The book can be purchased by contacting the Thomas More University Bookstore at 859-344-3335. Dr. Hebert can be contacted at hebertr@thomasmore.edu .
Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD is Editor of the “Our Rich History” weekly series and Professor of History at Northern Kentucky University (NKU). He can be contacted at tenkottep@nku.edu. Tenkotte also serves as Director of the ORVILLE Project (Ohio River Valley Innovation Library and Learning Engagement). For more information see https://orvillelearning.org/