By Raymond G. Hebert, PhD
Special to NKyTribune
In August 2016, Royal Cup Coffee and Tea, a family-owned and longstanding business dating back to 1896, featured Busken Bakery in its “Local Legends Business Spotlight.” By that time, Busken had been going strong for 80+ years.
That same article, in talking about Busken’s background, emphasized that when Joe Busken Sr. started the business in 1928, it was a means to feed his family and that he had no intention of becoming a baker. His father owned a small bakery in Oklahoma City, so he had some idea of what it entailed. “It was something he could do (and) that Daisie, his wife could help with by selling during the day” (Royal Cup Coffee and Tea, Local Legends: Busken Bakery,” August 1, 2016.)
A more expanded version of the “Busken Story,” by John Eckberg, was even more effusive and thorough about the Busken path to success. For example, he elaborated on the earlier revelation that Joseph Sr. never liked being in the business because of the stress about “what may or may not sell” and the terrible hours. It was noted, though, that despite the desire to pass the business on, it would take decades before he and ‘his sweetheart Daisie’ (whom he had brought to Cincinnati) carved their own path through the world, a path he hoped would have nothing to do with baking” (John Eckberg, “TheBusken Story”).
The balance of this fascinating story enlightens readers about the difficult early years, and the crucial formula that has always made it such a challenging business: “bake all night, sell all day, and making sure production matches demand (or) the growing family would eat what they did not sell.”
Meanwhile, growth followed in the 1930s, 1940s, and especially the 1950s as the “Busken empire grew ever larger.” Joe Jr. joined the company in 1952 and “through hard work and creativity” spearheaded the next level of growth, including the purchase of a building that would become a permanent home, “one large enough to supply baked goods for more than a dozen satellite locations.” It was on the corner of Madison and Edwards Roads and was “the biggest and best bakery anybody in Cincinnati had ever seen” (Eckberg).
Joe Jr.’s gamble paid off. What he never forgot and took full advantage of is that “eating a baked item or fried sweet for breakfast is a timeless and worldwide ritual” (Eckberg). In 1970, Page Busken joined his brother with an emphasis for new services such as “corporate catering, fund-raising programs, and corporate gift-giving during the holiday season.” In the 1970s a downtown presence combining a café and bakery was a success, and the Web created new retail opportunities, including nationwide distribution.
A fourth generation of family then became involved, including two grandsons of the company founder: Dan, who had first worked in construction, and Brian, who was a copywriter at an advertising agency. Eckberg asserts that the Busken philosophy spoke and acted consistently in a mode of growth – all made possible ultimately by a multi-generational family commitment to “quality products and friendly, Cincinnati-style service” (Eckberg).
Over the years, timely articles have reminded Cincinnatians and Northern Kentuckians of the important role that the Busken Bakery has played for decades. In 2017, it was a recognition for Busken’s 89th year of baking in Greater Cincinnati. In thanks, Brian and Dan said: “We’re going to give one lucky person 89 weeks of free donuts in honor of our 89 th birthday . . . that’s a lot of donuts.”
They also reminded readers that all eight of their bakery locations would offer free birthday cookies to every customer through the door. “There it was: well-deserved recognition and an appreciation that would be remembered by its patrons (“Busken’s 89th birthday,” August 17, 2017).
In 2021, John Unrein shared with his online readers that, in a COVID pandemic-driven world, Busken was adapting its philosophy with an emphasis on a “back to basics approach.” At its base, it was a decision to examine what was working, particularly for “making life easier for the customer” and doing more of those things. One of the results was returning to a practice employed at the original Hyde Park store — to have “hot donuts at a walk-up window at the back of the baking facility in Hyde Park”—with the opening conveniently on June 4th of that year, which was national Donut Day. The window would serve “fresh donuts, along with iced and hot coffee” (John Unrein, “Busken Bakery goes back to basics,” October 14, 2021).
Again, a bit later, an enlightening op-ed piece by Linda Busken Jergens, the daughter of Joe and Daisie Busken, reminded us of what drove her parents and other family members. She remembered the role played by the bakery in supporting diversity in the workplace, concluding that she was grateful “that our family bakery on Madison Road continues to be a gathering place celebrating the diversity of our city . . . may it always be a place of welcome, ‘where the heavenly smells are free’ ” (Linda Busken Jergens, “Opinion: Busken Bakery remains a gathering place for the diversity in our city,” Cincinnati Enquirer, February 16, 2022).
A parallel piece in Cincinnati Magazine focused on the women that have played a role in Busken’s success. In their words, “Every day, these women conduct a behind-the-scenes symphony, orchestrating retail, corporate accounts, e-commerce, celebration cakes, image cookies, accounting, marketing, graphic design, and human resources . . . this team makes Busken Bakery sing every morning” (CM Sales, “Women Who Move Cincinnati Series – Busken Bakery”, Cincinnati Magazine, February 16, 2024).
In a similar vein, as another example of successful progressive marketing, a WLWT-5 segment publicized the Busken Bakery’s creation of a “Presidential Cookie Poll.” Busken said that “the highest-selling cookie of the candidates from the two major parties has accurately predicted the winner of the election up until 2020.” Once again, strong local support for Donald Trump and other Republicans was overwhelming (Emily Sanderson, “A Cincinnati bakery is going viral with presidential cookie, “WLWT-5, September 20, 2024).
The Busken Bakery’s bottom line clearly is the ongoing pursuit of quality, excellence, and the personal touch as a part of the Busken culture. As the Royal Cup Coffee 2016 article concluded: “If you could give someone a one-sentence summary on why we should stop by Busken, what would it be?” The response was: “For 88 years, Busken Bakery has been providing guests with quality products, handmade by trusted Busken bakers, served fresh daily by a friendly staff with a flair for fun . . . our mission: create joy in all of life’s moments.”
Dr. Raymond G. Hebert is Professor of History and Executive Director of the William T. Robinson III Institute for Religious Liberty at Thomas More University. He is the leading author of Thomas More University at 100: Purpose, People, and Pathways to Student Success (2023). The book can be purchased by contacting the Thomas More University Bookstore at 859-344-3335. Dr. Hebert can be contacted at hebertr@thomasmore.edu
Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD is Editor of the “Our Rich History” weekly series and Professor of History at Northern Kentucky University (NKU). He can be contacted at tenkottep@nku.edu. Tenkotte also serves as Director of the ORVILLE Project (Ohio River Valley Innovation Library and Learning Engagement).