The riverboat captain is a storyteller, and Captain Don Sanders will be sharing the stories of his long association with the river — from discovery to a way of love and life. This story appeared on May 2, 2021 — capturing the excitement of that year’s Great American Steamboat Race, a part of Derby Festival celebrations in Louisville. This time, the Belle of Louisville won. But in 2024, the victor was the Belle of Cincinnati and the Bernstein family; Capt. Alan Bernstein and Capt. Terri Bernstein brought home the coveted Elk Antlers. (See story here)
By Captain Don Sanders
Special to NKyTribune
“All’s fair in love, war, and steamboat races.”
The paddlewheeler BELLE OF CINCINNATI stopped by Aurora Landing the other day for a quick breather on her way to Louisville for the “Great Steamboat Race” held just days before the annual Kentucky Derby spectacle. Although the BELLE is diesel-powered without a lick of steam, she’s still eligible to run for the coveted Elk Antlers the winner wears above their pilothouse.
The Great Steamboat Race got its start at Louisville on a cold, miserable day in 1963 between the steamers DELTA QUEEN and the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE before a live audience of some 500,000 hearty souls lining both shores of the frigid Ohio River. That same day, I hitchhiked to the racecourse from my dorm room in Richmond, Kentucky, over a hundred miles eastward, where, thankfully, the Captain’s wife relinquished her ticket so that I could witness the first race from the windswept decks of the DELTA QUEEN. Thanks again, Mrs. Rosilee Wagner, wherever you are.
Over the years, I’ve been a party to several more aquatic foot races between the two steam-powered riverboats during Derby Week. Aboard the DELTA QUEEN each spring, we struggled upstream against the might of the Mississippi, hoping to show up on time at the Falls City to participate in the race. On one trip, however, the QUEEN arrived too late to compete. Although the Mighty Mississippi was the actual winner, the Louisville BELLE took the antlers by default.
Steamboats on the Mississippi River System probably started racing as soon as two boats were on the river to square off in competition. Racing began in the early days as dead serious exhibitions to determine which steamer was the fastest as the speedier boat got the richest passengers and the choice of the most expensive cargo. Racing, which caused the demise of many a steamboat by explosions, sinking, conflagrations, and such, was a risky practice. Captains and Engineers quickly learn to bypass the safety valves on the high-pressure steam boilers. Seating a Cabin Boy on the balance lever of a racer’s pressure-release mechanism was common when rivalries heated up between two antagonists. Quite often, the pressure inside a boiler exceeded the metallurgical technology of the day, bursting them and sending the Cabin Boy and the steamship structure around him flying into the next county.
“Ole BOB LEE an’ NATCHEZ had a little race… BOB LEE throwed water in NATCHEZ’s face….”
Or so went a popular rouster tune of the Summer of 1870 when the two palatial “Monarchs of the Mississippi,” the Steamers ROBT. E. LEE and the NATCHEZ squared off for the most celebrated rivalry in riverboat history. Both boats were commanded by Kentucky-born steamboat masters, Captain John W. Cannon of Hawesville and Captain Thomas P. Leathers of Covington. Although both captains vehemently denied their boats were racing the 1,154 miles from New Orleans to St. Louis starting on the 30th of June 1970 at 5 p.m., “everybody knew the truth — these two nags had been groomed and prepared — both were heading for St. Louis,” according to steamboat historian, author, and pilot Captain Fredrick Way, Jr.
With the New Orleans harbor jam-packed with sightseers both ashore and aboard several large steamers outfitted as excursion vessels, the LEE announced her departure at a minute-and-three-quarters before five with a blast from a cannon on her bow. At two minutes past the hour, a cannon blast from the NATCHEZ signaled her departure from the Crescent City. Although illustrations of the day usually portray the two steamboats battling neck-and-neck, at no time during the race were the celebrated steamers running side by side. Three days, 18 hours, and 14 minutes later, another cannon on the Carondelet Bluffs in St. Louis announced the arrival of the “Hoppin’ Bob,” as her rousters fondly called the LEE. Several hours later, the NATCHEZ limped into town. Figuratively and literally, “BOB LEE throwed water in NATCHEZ’s face.”
Perhaps, the most cutthroat race I witnessed on the river was one between the Steamer AVALON and a modestly-laden diesel, screw-wheel towboat shoving a unit tow of three loaded oil barges. Whenever the AVALON, now in its 107th year and operating as the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE, had no paying passengers aboard as she “deadheaded” between towns, the steamboat had no special priority over the cargo carriers when it came to locking privileges. The AVALON and the towboat were both about equal distance away from a lock on the Upper Mississippi when both called for the open downstream chamber. Knowing that both the riderless excursion steamer and the towing vessel and barges had equal lock entitlements, the lockman announced over the radio:
Whoever’s the one who’s here first, gets the lock.”
“BOOM!” – he might as well fired a cannon. The race was on
Of course, as the lock was located along the shoreline, the steamboat and the tow were neck and neck not far offshore. Both the pilots ran hell-bent for the empty chamber. The AVALON was running close on a tight schedule to get to her next riverside destination, where a crowd of high school prom youngsters impatiently waited. To the towboat pilot, getting to the lock first meant several hours saved by not standing by for the steamboat to lock through first with the added delay of waiting for the lock reversal so he could travel on.
Captain Ernest E. Wagner, the legendary Master of the AVALON called Chief Engineer Jasper “Jake” Sidell standing behind the throttle of the Rees Variable Cutoff Engines:
“Jake — give me all you can, down there, without breaking anything.”
Over on the towboat with pilothouse controls, the wheelsman was probably doing the same with his engines.
What a thrilling race it was right up to the last minute when the AVALON got the lead on the tow that required a longer distance to slow down the towboat and barges before they rammed through the upper lock gate. I swore I heard the towboat pilot swearing over our pilothouse radio all the way down to where I was standing by on the bow holding the lock line as the AVALON glided smoothly into the empty chamber.
Meanwhile, back in Louisville during the second decade of the 21st Century, on Wednesday, 28 April 2021, charging hard beneath the Big Four Railroad Bridge, heading toward the finish line, the AMERICAN DUTCHESS was ahead with the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE and the BELLE OF CINCINNATI close behind. Following the pack was the Louisville Steamboat Company’s secondary boat, the little MARY M. MILLER.
Passing under the new Lewis & Clark and the JFK Memorial Bridges, the DUTCHESS was a full length ahead of the Louisville steamboat with the Cincinnati BELLE trailing. In the distance ahead, a thousand feet, or so, above the finish line at the Clark Memorial Bridge, the voice of a Louisville fan cried out:
Oh, my gosh… the BELLE is moving!”
On an exciting video shot and posted on social media by the Louisville Metro Police Department, the hometown boat looked, indeed, like she’d been given an extra hit of super-charged live steam. The closer the two front-runners came to the finish, the more excitedly the cameraman narrated to his live audience:
“The Clark Memorial Bridge, that’s the finish line… you better step on it… three boats this year (actually, four)… I don’t know if she’s got enough… it’s going to be close, guys… step on it… oh, my gosh, they’re neck and neck… the BELLE just took the lead… I think she’s got it… go, baby, go… YES, SIR… YES, SIR… that’s a Dove… that’s a Dove, y’all!”
As the ancient three-chimed steam whistle of the BELLE OF LOUISVILLE screamed victoriously, another Great Steamboat Race went into the record book. Perhaps next year, the BELLE OF CINCINNATI will lead the pack, and what if, in just a very few more years, the venerable veteran of steamboat racing, the Steamer DELTA QUEEN, will be victorious as she charges beneath the Clark Memorial Bridge.
Now, that’s a steamboat race I’d love to live to see.
Captain Don Sanders is a river man. He has been a riverboat captain with the Delta Queen Steamboat Company and with Rising Star Casino. He learned to fly an airplane before he learned to drive a “machine” and became a captain in the USAF. He is an adventurer, a historian, and a storyteller. Now, he is a columnist for the NKyTribune and will share his stories of growing up in Covington and his stories of the river. Hang on for the ride — the river never looked so good.
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Enjoy Captain Don Sanders’ stories of the river — in the book.
Capt. Don Sanders The River: River Rat to steamboatman, riding ‘magic river spell’ to 65-year adventure is now available for $29.95 plus handling and applicable taxes. This beautiful, hardback, published by the NKyTribune, is 264-pages of riveting storytellings, replete with hundreds of pictures from Capt. Don’s collection — and reflects his meticulous journaling, unmatched storytelling, and his appreciation for detail. This historically significant book is perfect for the collections of every devotee of the river.
You may purchase your book by mail from the Northern Kentucky Tribune — or you may find the book for sale at all Roebling Books locations and at the Behringer Crawford Museum and the St. Elizabeth Healthcare gift shops.
Order your Captain Don Sanders’ ‘The River’ book here.
Ah, the tension & yet ( for the passengers at least) the fun of steamboat racing. Capt Don yet again brings to life the little & big momens of racing thru the centuries.
I’ve been on the Delta Queen when Capt had drinks served on the Texas bow to move passengers/weight forward to bring her wheel up. Oh the cheering & yelling as we pulled ahead.. Thanks for helping us understand & celebrate racing. Thank you NKyTribune for resharing this great set of stories I n one.
Ah, ain’t nothin’ like a steamboat race! Sigh! I hope to heaven I’ll be on a few more in my lifetime! Thanks, Captain Don!
Capt. Don did a mighty fine job of cooking up a juicy river steak of a subject called “steamboat racing”. The public can really get their teeth into this delicacy! Thanks for the weekly tales from between the banks, Capt. Don and NKYTribune!
Always a joy to read Don’s story