Our Rich History: The rise and fall of the F&N Steakhouse — the food was legendary

By Raymond G. Hebert, PhD
Special to NKyTribune

Part 14 of an occasional series about Casual & Fine Dining

In the Encyclopedia of Northern Kentucky, among other sources, we learn about a hot dog and
sandwich shop opened in 1929 in Dayton by George and Norma Schlueter Thomas. With great foresight, after Prohibition Laws were repealed in 1933, “the Thomas family converted their food business into the F&N Steakhouse (named for the two Schlueter sisters, Florence, who died early in the venture, and Norma). The new steakhouse’s building was carved into the hill on the south side of KY Rt. 8, the Mary Ingles Highway, just east of Dayton in Campbell County’ (Michael Sweeney, “F&N Steakhouse” in Paul A. Tenkotte and James C. Claypool, eds., The Encyclopedia of Northern Kentucky. Lexington: University Press of Kentucky, 2009).

The article then reminds the reader how quickly the restaurant became popular, even a “Northern Kentucky dining tradition,” known for its “delicious and high-quality prime ribs, charcoal steaks (and) . . . tasty, well done baked potatoes.” It was also a much-beloved “date” restaurant because “the dark interior motif, soft lighting, and fireplaces contributed to a romantic mood.” As an aside, for my wife and me, it was one of our favorite restaurants to celebrate our wedding anniversaries over a decade or more and was missed by us and many others when it closed (Encyclopedia of Northern Kentucky).

Over the good years at the F&N, there was expansion and remodeling, always in ways to retain the restaurant’s strengths and atmosphere. In 1968, there was a fire, and multiple sources noted a surprising and impressive return to business in just a few months. One of the bolder steps, as they looked to the future, was the opening of the Thomasville Party House across the road along the Ohio River for hosting large, private gatherings with extra parking and access to a boat landing. As noted in the Encyclopedia, there always seemed to be long waits of “up to two hours to be seated.” That well-written article also notifies the readers of Norma’s death in 1971, that of Norma’s son Eugene in 1986 at 59, and of George Thomas in 1988 at the age of 85.

The Encyclopedia emphasizes that the building of the new AA Highway diverted traffic from Rt. 8 and was a contributing factor in the F&N’s ultimate closure. Another cause was the opening of Newport on the Levee, with its many options all in one place. Despite its many strengths, the F&N Steakhouse was located in an out-of-the-way location and had minimal parking. Not surprisingly, then, “the F&N Steakhouse shut down for good at the close of business on Wednesday night, August 11, 2004, and shortly after, the owners filed for bankruptcy. The family sold the properties to David Hosea, a local businessman” (Encyclopedia).

In 2001 the Cincinnati Enquirer remarked that “This 71-year-old steakhouse in Dayton, KY has a grown-up, lived-in atmosphere in which to eat the occasional steak.” The review then has the readers “plunging into the depths of . . . a New York strip . . . and a slab of prime rib (and) wallowing in a porterhouse.” The eggplant is described as having “the zestiest cocktail sauce in the Tristate” and every steak is “described as” juicy and flavorful.” However, the author describes the atmosphere as “decades-old, with crushed velvet couches and commemorative whiskey decanters among the style notes” and the service was seen as “overworked, but efficient.”

They concluded with a 3-star rating compared to 4-star and 4-star plus ratings in previous years. As the restaurant moved into a new century, then, it was clear that there were many challenges and, above all, a mounting and expanded competition (“Restaurants,” Cincinnati Enquirer, August 3, 2001, p.89).

Not surprisingly, it was only a few years later that an article appeared stating: “A 75-year-old Kentucky roads fixture called the F&N Steakhouse has closed its doors in the face of fewer customers and growing competition (with) . . . its 40 employees informed this week they needed to go in search of other work.” At the same time, alongside many similar testimonials, the Dayton, Kentucky Police Chief, who said he had been dining there for “35 years,” spoke for many in saying how the restaurant would be missed. Interestingly, within that report, Margene Grizzell responded “I feel like there’s been a death in the family (adding) . . . that the younger people want the franchises and the places that are louder and more active owned businesses” (“75-year-old KY steakhouse shuts doors,” UPI, August 13, 2004).

In an ironic twist, a few years later, with the direct intention of bringing back a quality steak restaurant to Dayton and wisely not on the same site, it was Kathleen Trotta who saw the opportunity in a different historic building on Sixth Avenue still in Dayton (which until just before 2017 had been the Home of the Buona Vita Restaurant). This was noticed by the Cincinnati Enquirer’s Polly Campbell, who quickly reviewed it as Trotta’s Steak and Seafood Restaurant. The important link with the past for our story came through the chef, “Tim “Sarge” Turner, who was once the chef at F&N Steakhouse, a little farther east on KY 8,” which, as she reminded her readers, closed in 2004. One of Campbell’s first observations in pursuing that connection, was that “he’ll be making fried eggplant strips, which were a famous appetizer at the F&N” (Polly Campbell, “Classic Steak and Seafood Restaurant Opens in Dayton,” Cincinnati Enquirer, May 18, 2017).

The special part of this story, as we reflect back upon a much-beloved restaurant, is that the memory of the F&N Steakhouse as operated by the Thomas family, partially lives on at the current classic restaurant called Trotta’s Steak and Seafood Restaurant at 441 Sixth Avenue in Dayton.

Dr. Raymond G. Hebert is Professor of History and Executive Director of the William T. Robinson III Institute for Religious Liberty at Thomas More University. He is the leading author of Thomas More University at 100: Purpose, People, and Pathways to Student Success (2023). The book can be purchased by contacting the Thomas More University Bookstore at 859-344-3335. Dr. Hebert can be contacted at hebertr@thomasmore.edu.

Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD is Editor of the “Our Rich History” weekly series and Professor of History and Gender Studies at Northern Kentucky University (NKU). He can be contacted at tenkottep@nku.edu. Tenkotte also serves as Director of the ORVILLE Project (Ohio River Valley Innovation Library and Learning Engagement). For more information see https://orvillelearning.org/