By Raymond G. Hebert, PhD
Special to NKyTribune
There are many articles about Cincinnati’s German bakeries and the well-deserved reputation for quality that has come with them. The Cincinnati Enquirer’s Polly Campbell even wrote about “how Cincinnati became the capital of coffeecake.”
In her words, “when Germans started coming to America, they brought their cake recipes and habits with them.” There was the Virginia Bakery, Wyoming Pastry Shop, Bonbonnerie, Busken’s, St. Lawrence, and Servatii’s.
The Servatii’s website perhaps expresses it best:
“For many people it invokes feelings of warmth, home, and memories. It is a name that resonates deeply within the communities of Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky. When you walk into one of the store fronts, you are immediately hit with the aromas of the baked goods that will travel to homes all across the city. It is a name steeped in history. It is a name that invites you to learn and know more about baking” (“Baking it Fresh Over 50 Years,”).
While many of us have experienced the aromas described above, few of us would know about Greater Cincinnati’s baking history that is remarkable in its own right. Wilhelm (William; “Bill”) Gottenbusch traveled around the world on international freighters, came to Cincinnati and founded Servatii’s, opening his first shop in Hyde Park.
At the time of his death at 87 years old in 2022, the Cincinnati Enquirer reminded us that Gottenbusch had “descended from a family of pastry chefs (in Muenster), at least two generations before him, having owned bakeries in Germany.” This included Wilhelm’s father, George. William “followed in his father’s footsteps by earning master baker status and starting his own bakeries in Cincinnati” (Quinlan Bentley, “Wilhelm Gottenbusch, founder of Servatii’s Pastry Shop, Dies at 87,” Cincinnati Enquirer, March 3, 2022).
The obituary notes, as a well-deserved testament to his accomplishment, that Gottenbusch opened Servatii’s on Observatory Avenue in 1963 and:
“Though there were already two bakeries in Oakley, two in Mount Lookout, and three in Hyde Park (all predominantly German-owned) and, since that first shop opened, there are now more than a dozen Servatii locations scattered throughout Greater Cincinnati.”
Apparently, the competition did not bother him since he believed innately that his bakery would be the best. As an example of Gottenbusch’s closeness to his community, he had asked that memorial contributions be made to Mater Filius, an organization that “offers transitional housing to pregnant women in need of support” (Bentley).
An article just a few years before Wilhelm’s death emphasized his nostalgic look back to his apprenticeship with his father at the bakery back in Muenster, Germany, making it the “ancestral and spiritual home of Servatii.” Most revealing, though, was a reference to the “array of Old World pastries (tortes, truffles, pies, cheesecakes, cookies, sweet rolls, and pretzels) all baked using the same recipes as Wilhelm used decades ago, which of course were much the same as his father used at Café Servatii in Muenster” (Brian Planalp, “The 5 German Ties of Cincinnati’s Favorite pastry Shop,” Local 12 TV, August 13, 2018 and updated August 16, 2019).
Another article pointed out that Wilhelm’s sons, Greg and Gary, also apprenticed in Germany, earning their journeyman status qualifications in pastry and, highlighting the importance of Wilhelm’s role by noting how “you could often find Wilhelm and his wife popping into a shop to say hello to the employees and customers. He is definitely a man that values the hard work and dedication the employees put forth to carry on his legacy” (“Baking it Fresh Over 50 Years”).
A related article interviewed a long-time employee, named Renda, a 40-year veteran with Servatii, at the time serving as manager of the White Oak store. The article opened with the appreciation of Servatii’s as a “bakery infused with history,” emphasizing how many employees “had been serving the Servatii’s company (like Renda) for 20 or more years” (“Tales of a Time at Servatii – Renda“).
The author concluded with a touching emphasis. When Renda was asked about her favorite thing about work, she chose to “share her love for the Gottenbusch family and said they are some of the most loving and caring people she has had the privilege to work for.” Clearly, that would ultimately be a lasting legacy of Servatii’s cultural place in Greater Cincinnati baking history.
Symbolic of Servatii’s progress was the recognition it received in 2009 as the recipient of the American Culinary Federation (ACF)’s Achievement of Excellence Award. In their Press Release, ACF noted that “Servatii’s prepares more than 450 authentic European and American recipes each year… offers deli and catering services, wedding cakes, treats, and breakfast items… (and that) they have nine locations in Ohio and one in Kentucky” (American Culinary Federation (ACF), Press Release, “Servatii Pastry Shop and Deli Receives 2009 ACF Achievement of Excellence Award”).
The ACF promoted above all else the primary criteria which included that the Award recognizes food service establishments that exemplify “a commitment to excellence in this area” (Press Release). For Servatii’s, “area” means both the baking world and the Greater Cincinnati community.
Recently, as noted in the Planalp article, we are told that “today, the baking tradition has been carried on by Wilhelm’s son Greg, and his nephew Paul, (who are)… fourth and fifth generation bakers and, though they’re rooted in Cincinnati, they’re still drawing inspiration from their German forefathers” (Local 12 TV). Wilhelm, the patriarch and founder would be proud of his legacy.
Dr. Raymond G. Hebert is professor of history and executive director of the William T. Robinson III Institute for Religious Liberty at Thomas More University. He is the leading author of Thomas More University at 100: Purpose, People, and Pathways to Student Success (2023). The book can be purchased by contacting the Thomas More University Bookstore at 859-344-3335. Dr. Hebert can be contacted at hebertr@thomasmore.edu
Paul A. Tenkotte, PhD is Editor of the “Our Rich History” weekly series and Professor of History and Religious Studies at Northern Kentucky University (NKU). He can be contacted at tenkottep@nku.edu. Tenkotte also serves as Director of the ORVILLE Project (Ohio River Valley Innovation Library and Learning Enrichment). For more information see orvillelearning.org
Thank you so much for your talents and history.CONGRATULATIONS.